Hanging in Pakistan – Nine Years Later

I was wandering through the aisles of Springs Mart, a grocery store in Karachi, Pakistan, studying everything. A supermarket isn’t a big deal but checking one out in another country is always fascinating to me. I saw stuff that I’m used to seeing in markets here but then there were also items I had never seen before anywhere, like variations of iced coffee in the fridge and even unique sandwich spreads (“Twix” spread? What? Why? And can I have some?!). 

It was my first night in Pakistan, nine years after the last time I had been in the country. I was in the market with my cousin and his wife getting bottled water for me, ensuring that I don’t accidentally drink the regular water and end up spending my trip sequestered to my bed, clutching my stomach, and hating life. 

I had just gotten to the country, but I was optimistic. There was a reason I hadn’t been to Pakistan since 2007 but I had decided to get over myself and book a trip to the country so I can see family. I have an uncle and aunts there – my dad’s siblings – and plenty of cousins that I wanted to reconnect with as it had been far too long since I had any real conversations with many of them.

In that sense, when I look back at my trip, it was what I needed it to be. I sat down with my relatives and asked them questions and listened to stories. I talked with my dad’s eldest sister about life in India before Partition in 1947, hearing about living in the city of Bulandshahr and going to the town of Khanpur during the summers to visit their grandparents. I heard about the family’s journey to Pakistan after the borders were created, about leaving everything behind and taking the bus to Agra, a train to Bombay, and then a ship to Karachi.

My uncle even dug up this picture of my grandfather – a group picture with the sports club he belonged to in 1928. That’s him posing on the bottom right. I never knew him as he passed away long before I was born. The only other picture of him I had seen was of him looking very dignified and serious so it was a bit of a trip to see him in this sports club picture.

From 1928 - A picture from the Christie Kutchery Sports Club in Bulandshahr. My grandfather is at the bottom right.
From 1928 – A picture from the Christie Kutchery Sports Club in Bulandshahr. My grandfather is at the bottom right.

I had a nice time talking to my cousins as well. It pained me that I missed so much of everyone’s lives, that I almost knew nothing about what had been up these past years even though we’re all connected on Facebook.

I’m incredibly grateful for being blessed and able to take the time to get over there and see everyone and indebted to my family for all the great conversations. I’m hoping it won’t be another nine years since I next visit the country and see family, InshAllah.

Random Musings:
-There are these chai/paratha* places that have popped up in Karachi in the Defence area (where I was staying) and one of the things on my to-do list was to check out one of them. These places are interesting. The establishments operate out of a kitchen with tables and chairs set up in empty lots to serve their customers. However, they don’t actually own the lots that their customers sit in, just the kitchen in which they cook their food. The one we went to was nice, with families hanging out in the lot, which was well-lit, well into the night. Even though it was late, I got myself a couple of cups of chai with my paratha – the traditional doodh pathi and a kashmiri chai because why not (well, actually, the “why not” should’ve been answered with a “because it’s pretty late Bushra and maybe you shouldn’t be drinking so much chai at this hour.”) Don’t judge but I kinda want to go back just to try all the other places.

Paratha and Kashmiri Chai at Desi Gali in Defence
Paratha and Kashmiri Chai at Desi Gali in Defence

-Dolmen Mall is… interesting. The last time I was in Pakistan, this place didn’t exist. It’s this massive indoor mall that has everything you would ever need. Back in the day, if we wanted to get clothes, we would have to wander through outdoor markets where I wasn’t allowed to say a word in case anyone heard my American accent and increased the price. Now, anyone (even me!) can do their shopping from this place, which houses American brands but also many Pakistani ones. Granted, as it’s a mall, I got completely overwhelmed and went through the stores and said I didn’t like anything and was therefore done shopping, but my bhabi (cousin’s wife) took the time to sift through many clothes and found me stuff that I should try on and ended up liking. I’m a child when it comes to shopping folks and I need someone to hold my hand through all of this.

At Dolmen Mall...
At Dolmen Mall…

*Chai = tea and parathas are these flatbreads that are cooked with ghee and may be plain or stuffed. Either way, they are awesome.

4 thoughts

  1. Nice Bushra! I see you conveniently left me out of your chronicles 😡 Kidding I’m going to try out the chai/paratha place on my next visit and thanks for the choco dates 😘I’ve only ever had them plain so it was nice treat all for me 😇

  2. Great post!

    Yeah it sucks that we, living all the way on the other side of the world, end up having to have larger gaps between our trips back where our parents are from. I feel the same way when I go to India (and yes, Paksitan too – I’ve got one khala and her kids in KHI, also in Defence – 5 I think) – so many people to meet and catch up on their lives. Though I’m thankful for our WhatsApp group (but yes, like everyone else, I have to mute it from time to time hehehe)..

    Once again, I’m so glad you were able to make time and make the trip. Life is so short and knowing how we get caught up in our lives (esp in the US where it’s go-go-go all the time), it’s a great way to remember the important things, family and the support they provide, even with the distance.

    I always go to Agha’s when I’m in KHI – last time I was there, the parking lot was flooding post-heavy rain) and my foot slipped into the water (very dirty, as I’m sure you can imagine) while I was talking on the parking bump things and other surfaces that were still above the water line.. But always to there to get cereal etc.

    Hmm, that mall, I wonder if that’s the same one I recall going to – I’ll have to ask my baji. Last trip for me there was December 2002.

    Anyways, this was one of those warm and fuzzy posts :) Paratha and chai = *heart emoji*

  3. Oops, just looked it up, it opened in 2011, so yeah that was not the mall I went to. Looks super impressive from the photos!

    Additionally, I hate spending too much time shopping – like it, try it on, buy it and get out lol. That’s my motto. :p

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